CHAPTER FIVE

Beverly Hills — West Hollywood

1958–1970s

As Jim’s clientele grew, he needed more space. He opened an atelier in Beverly Hills, a move that ushered in an era in his life filled with the glamour of old-money families, trophy wives, models, and performers.

In 1958, Jim and Barbara married in Ensenada, where no blood test was required since Barbara had a fear of needles. Jim rented a home on Gardener Street in Los Angeles for the family, Barbara and Bonita, now four years old. A year later, they welcomed their daughter, Giovanna. Money was tight, with the growing family, but his atelier business was steady and increasing.

At a party, Jim was introduced to Gino Patchett, a former fashion sketch artist for The New York Times. Gino had traveled to Los Angeles for the warmer climate and hoped to find similar work there. He shared with Jim he had also learned sewing skills from his mother, including hemming, applying hooks and eyes, and beadwork—all of which proved invaluable to James’s business. Jim recognized that having an illustrator for his designs would be a smart addition for his clients.

During this period, James was creating stage costumes for Louis Prima and Keely Smith. His knowledge of supportive bra construction and elegant gown design made him a favorite of British pin-up bombshell June Wilkinson. He is credited with designing the gowns for her Bmovies The Continental Twist and Mucumba Love .

Life was moving quickly for James. He purchased a home on Laurel Avenue in West Hollywood, complete with a garage workshop and an adjacent guest house where Gino moved in. Gino became very close to the family, serving as a kind of "manny" and helping wherever he was needed. The children adored him.

The garage was destined for a complete transformation into James’s larger atelier, becoming a true house of couture. Not long afterward, James and Barbara welcomed their son, Zebedee, whose chosen name was inspired by Biblical and metaphysical meaning of a “Gift from God”.

In the summer of 1965, a phone call from his sister Lee brought Jim the news that their mother was now living alone. Emil had died in a tragic accident while burning garden debris. It was presumed that he had suffered a heart attack and fallen into the flames. Their mother also speculated that he may have simply tripped and fallen into the fire. No one knows for certain what happened. Either way, Mary noted that she had been unable to help him escape the flames. He did however, leave behind a military pension.

Lee told Jim that she was planning to fly to Los Angeles with their mother for a family visit, allowing her to meet her grandchildren for the first time. Jim had not seen his mother since leaving Florida many years earlier. He agreed to see her again. The reunion was about as pleasant as such a meeting could be—two different worlds and two very different people. When the visit ended, Lee accompanied their mother back to Florida. It was the last time Jim would ever see his mother.

Beyond Jim’s perfectionism in construction and design, he understood that the Ottobre atelier needed to provide a unique experience for its clientele—one that would distinguish it from all others. His customers included society couples, heiresses, trophy wives, architects, actors, and even stylish strippers. These clients often maintained weekly appointments with a hairdresser, manicurist, facialist, couturier, and therapist. Jim was more than a couturier; he was also a trusted confidant who was privy to many of their secrets.